Colosio, a company based in Brescia and a global frontrunner in hosiery and footwear machinery, is solidifying its position as an Italian paragon of excellence in textile machine design and production. The company has undergone a remarkable evolution, transforming from a small artisan workshop into a worldwide industry leader. Under the governance of its founder, and subsequently his children, Colosio is now reshaping the footwear sector with cutting-edge technologies that seamlessly blend superior performance with a genuinely eco-conscious approach. We sat down with Vice President Fabiana Colosio to delve into the company’s past and future.
Colosio boasts a long history rich with innovation. How did it all begin?
“The Colosio journey began in 1958, when my father founded the company in a small artisan workshop, a common starting point for nascent businesses back then. Initially, his focus was on converting existing hosiery machines. He was an extraordinary inventor, and one of his earliest and most impactful creations, the one that truly propelled the company onto the global stage, was the intarsia machine. This is, for instance, the very machine that produced those iconic Burlington socks with their distinctive Argyle diamond pattern. It was precisely this technology that ignited our worldwide expansion, making us the sole proprietors of this unique, father-invented technology.”
What exactly does this intarsia technology entail?
“Developed between ‘78 and ‘79, intarsia technology is a system that allows yarn to be processed without being cut during production. This is a crucial aspect because it enables us to create distinct zones within the fabric using different knit stitches and various yarns, all while maintaining material continuity. Unlike traditional circular knitting, which severs threads, our technology facilitates the creation of complex structures where we can integrate elastic areas, insert special or heat-sealable yarns, and craft high-definition designs, elements that are simply unachievable with standard circular machines. Then, in ‘85, my father took another monumental step, making this machine ‘full electronic’, the world’s first of its kind. He equipped it with comprehensive electronic control, replacing mechanical systems with actuators and electromagnetic selections, thereby significantly boosting precision, versatility, and production speed.”
When and how did the transition from hosiery to footwear come to life?
“In 2015, we developed our first machine specifically for shoes, still leveraging our core intarsia technology. We produced the inaugural footwear, and we immediately recognized the exceptional results. Our technology swiftly captured the attention of the world’s leading sports brands, notably Nike and Adidas, with whom we initiated partnerships that continue to flourish today. The immense advantage of our technology is that by not cutting the threads, it allows us to create uppers with diverse characteristics in different areas of the shoe, seamlessly integrating elasticity, support, and breathability precisely where they’re needed.”
What are the latest innovations you’re developing?
“Recently, again for a prominent sports brand, we’ve developed a new, very fine gauge machine, offering even higher design definition. ‘Gauge’ refers to the number of needles per unit of measurement: a very fine gauge machine boasts a high needle count in a compact space, enabling the creation of finer, lighter fabrics with more intricate details. This aligns perfectly with the current trend among most sports brands, who are seeking increasingly lightweight yet high-performance footwear. Furthermore, we’re also making strides in the safety sector, where our technology has the potential to revolutionize production processes. Last October, at the Desma House Fair, we showcased one of our machines, which garnered considerable acclaim from visitors.”
What advantages does your technology offer over traditional systems?
“The groundbreaking aspect of our solutions lies in the speed and simplicity of the process: with conventional technologies, producing a single shoe would demand numerous distinct stages, often executed in various locations (sometimes even in different countries), involving extensive transportation, intermediate storage, and significant manual labor. Our system, however, enables the entire process to be completed in a remarkably short time with minimal steps, a profound innovation for the footwear industry. The upper is taken from our machine, placed on a last, thermoformed, then the sole is added via injection or gluing, and voilà, the shoe is ready. The benefits of this technology are multiple. In terms of productivity, for example, our machine dramatically outperforms traditional flat knitting machines, with a one-to-three ratio regarding personnel involvement. That means productivity is tripled. Then there are the logistical advantages: currently, many companies have offshored their assembly phase to countries like Albania or Romania, leading to transportation complexities, coordination hurdles, and escalating labor costs. Our technology eliminates these steps, facilitating direct production in Europe. While this represents a substantial investment for companies, in the long run, it could genuinely be the only viable path to competitive production.”
What are the core strengths that distinguish you from the competition?
“Without a doubt, our patents provide us with a significant edge, but I’d argue that our primary, and rather self-evident, strength is our sixty years of expertise in intarsia. When major brands initially approached us, we were able to resolve their challenges immediately, thanks to our extensive textile history. Our technicians possess a depth of knowledge that competitors simply cannot match, as they haven’t directly dealt with this specific product type before. Furthermore, our patents enable us to maintain an incredibly clean and straightforward machine, a non-negligible factor in terms of maintenance and operational efficiency.”
Sustainability is a highly current and broadly discussed issue. How does your technology align with this perspective?
“Our technology is genuinely ‘zero-waste,’ effectively eliminating production scraps. Implementing it globally would drastically reduce transportation, leading to a significantly lower environmental impact. The machine itself is very compact, minimizing space requirements, energy consumption is negligible, and production output is three times higher compared to traditional flat knitting machines. All of this translates into a much lighter ecological footprint. Sustainability has, by now, become an integral part of our core business.”
What are your primary operational markets currently?
“We have a global presence, but fundamentally, our main markets today are China, Taiwan, and Vietnam, where a substantial portion of global footwear production is concentrated. Adidas has a supplier in Turkey who has purchased our machines, but most of our other clients are primarily in Asia. However, we are observing increasing interest in Europe as well, with some companies beginning to restore production.”
What are your most recent projects?
“Recently, we developed a ski and cross-country ski boot in collaboration with a prominent brand from Montebelluna. This is a highly intriguing project that showcases how our technology can be applied even in highly specialized sectors with stringent technical requirements. The versatility of our technology continuously allows us to explore new applications and new industries.”
Fabiana Colosio, Vicepresidente