Cotance, Leather: The Natural Choice for a Circular Economy

In an era where sustainability and circularity dominate global discussions, the European leather industry has firmly reasserted its crucial role as a pioneer of the circular economy. This reaffirmation came at Cotance’s (Confederation of National Associations of Tanners and Dressers of the European Community) partner event during EU Green Week 2025. The webinar, aptly titled “Leather: A Natural Choice for the Circular Economy,” brought together experts, regulators, and an international audience to explore how leather truly embodies the principles of a cleaner, more competitive, and circular future.

The event, skillfully moderated by Vita Kobiela, Cotance’s Communication and Project Manager, attracted over 300 registered attendees from every continent. This impressive turnout clearly highlighted the growing global interest in leather’s pivotal role in sustainability.

Circularity: Woven into Leather’s DNA

Manuel Rios, President of Cotance, kicked off the event by emphasizing that circularity is quite literally “the DNA of the leather industry.” He spotlighted the European tanning sector, which boasts some 1,500 tanneries and 30,000 employees, generating an estimated annual revenue of 5 to 6 billion euros – a significant slice of the global market. The core of its circular contribution, he explained, lies in its remarkable ability to rescue hides and skins that would otherwise become waste from food production, transforming them into a valuable, durable material.

“Without tanners, these hides and skins would simply end up as waste,” Rios asserted. “Leather not only slashes waste production but also prevents the greenhouse gases that would arise from the decomposition of this organic material. And unlike other materials, leather, at the end of its life cycle, doesn’t end up in floating islands in the world’s oceans. It simply disintegrates back into nature’s biomass.”

Crafting Value from Co-products: Cotance’s Vision

Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, Cotance’s Secretary General, delved deeper into the concept of “creating wealth from waste.” He meticulously explained how hides are valuable by-products of the livestock sector. He clarified the distinction between primary products (like meat and dairy) and by-products (such as blood, bones, horns, and hides), underscoring the vital role tanners play in recovering approximately 8 million tons of raw hides globally from the food industry.

Gonzalez-Quijano also voiced significant concerns, including a worrying decline in leather utilization, which could lead to severe health and environmental ramifications. He estimated that roughly 134 million bovine hides annually are not being processed into leather, generating about 40 million tons of CO2 equivalent – a staggering figure comparable to the yearly emissions of some 8.7 million cars.

Furthermore, he stressed the urgent need for a regulatory framework that genuinely recognizes leather’s identity and implements fair environmental metrics. The stigmatization of leather as a “driver of deforestation” and the potential shift of the European industry to other regions, he warned, pose concrete risks demanding legislative attention.

METASKILLS4TCLF: Investing in a Sustainable Future

Vita Kobiela then introduced the METASKILLS4TCLF project, a four-year Erasmus+ European initiative involving 30 stakeholders from 10 EU Member States and Ukraine. This project is specifically designed to bolster the leather, textile, clothing, and footwear (TCLF) sectors in their green and digital transition through innovative education and training.

METASKILLS4TCLF is in the process of developing 36 micro-courses, with seven explicitly focusing on leather, covering topics like circular economy and digital fashion. These courses will be greatly enhanced by immersive and non-immersive virtual reality experiences, filmed directly in real tanneries, companies, and research centers, truly revolutionizing learning within the sector.

The Science of Leather Circularity: Beyond the Surface

Gustavo Adrian De Feo, CEO of Ars Tinctoria CTC, provided an in-depth scientific look at leather’s circular properties, contrasting it with fossil-based materials. De Feo highlighted the persistent problem of microplastics and nanoplastics derived from petroleum, underscoring their toxic impacts on both human health and the environment.

He introduced the concept of “bio-based” materials as an inherently carbon-neutral and circular solution. Through carbon-14 (C14) analysis, he demonstrated how leather, especially vegetable-tanned leather, achieves a remarkable bio-based content exceeding 95%, a stark contrast to many “vegan” alternatives that frequently contain a high percentage of petroleum derivatives.

Gustavo Adrian De Feo then illustrated various end-of-life scenarios for leather. These included the production of fertilizers and biostimulants (offering a “carbon positive” impact), energy recovery (with a balanced CO2 footprint), and biochar production. This last option, in particular, allows for carbon sequestration in the soil, actively helping to combat climate change. “We need to go back to leathers with a natural look,” De Feo affirmed, “the more natural we make leathers, the better the chances for excellent end-of-life treatment.”

The Supply Chain’s Value: Deborah Taylor’s Perspective

A pivotal moment in the webinar was the address by Deborah Taylor, Managing Director of the Sustainable Leather Foundation. She offered profound insights into the value of the leather supply chain within the context of sustainability and circularity.

Taylor underscored how transparency and traceability are paramount to ensuring leather genuinely functions as a circular and responsible material. “Sustainability isn’t just about production; it’s about the entire product life cycle: from the sourcing of raw materials to processing practices, all the way through to reuse and end-of-life,” Taylor articulated. Utilizing certification tools and digital platforms, the Sustainable Leather Foundation actively promotes the collection and sharing of reliable data across the entire value chain, thereby bolstering confidence among consumers and stakeholders alike.

Taylor also highlighted the critical importance of collaboration among all actors in the supply chain – from ranchers and farmers to brands, including tanners and distributors – to tackle environmental and social challenges effectively. She cited compelling examples of companies that, through rigorous audit processes and continuous improvement, have successfully reduced their water, energy, and chemical consumption, proving that leather can be produced both responsibly and competitively.

Finally, Taylor reminded the audience that true circularity can only be achieved if products are designed for durability, reparability, and ultimately, for recycling or biodegrading. “Leather, when managed correctly, stands as a perfect example of a material that can span multiple generations, easing pressure on resources and contributing to a greener, more competitive European economy.”

Biodegradability and Compostability: Karl Flowers’ Contribution

Another crucial segment of the webinar featured Karl Flowers, Managing Director of Authenticae. He presented the latest scientific evidence on leather’s biodegradability and compostability within the circular economy framework.

Flowers demonstrated how leather, as a natural material rich in bio-based content, exhibits superior degradation characteristics compared to synthetic alternatives. He emphasized that leather, when properly treated and disposed of, can biodegrade relatively quickly, returning useful elements to the soil without leaving persistent residues or microplastics, unlike many synthetic options currently on the market. This characteristic makes it particularly well-suited for circular production and consumption models, where a product’s end-of-life isn’t an environmental burden but rather an opportunity for natural resource regeneration.

In his presentation, Flowers further stressed the significance of reliable standards and testing methods to transparently and scientifically prove the true biodegradability and compostability performance of leather versus other materials. He drew attention to Authenticae’s recent research, which consistently confirms that leather – especially that tanned using traditional and low-impact methods – can reintegrate into natural cycles without causing pollution.

Ultimately, Flowers reiterated that genuine circularity necessitates choosing materials that are not only durable and reparable but also have a minimal impact at their end of life. In this respect, leather continues to prove itself as one of the most effective and sustainable solutions for both the European and global industries.

The Cotance webinar at EU Green Week 2025 powerfully reinforced the message that leather isn’t merely a luxury material; it’s a foundational pillar of the circular economy. The European tanning sector is deeply committed to transforming a food industry by-product into a durable, repairable, and biodegradable material, actively contributing to waste reduction and lower greenhouse gas emissions. For this industry to truly flourish, it requires regulatory support that acknowledges its inherent value and facilitates its ongoing transition towards an even greener and more digital future. www.euroleather.com