Ecotan, from circularity to multi-circularity

The story of Ecotan, a pioneering initiative conceived by Silvateam, stands out as a real revolution in the leather tanning industry. Born with the ambitious goal of transforming end-of-life leathers and processing waste into valuable resources, Ecotan combines tradition and innovation, offering sustainable solutions to the market, in an ever-evolving process. Alessandra Taccon, BU Leather Ecotan Project Director, recounts the evolution of the project: “From an initial circular system, we have moved to an all-round multi-circularity approach, embracing the concept of eco- design. This issue is so crucial to us that we placed it at the center of an in-depth scientific study made in collaboration with Gustavo Defeo of the company Ars Tinctoria, today part of the CTC Group, which also gave rise to a new communication campaign, inspired by circularity at its highest level, entitled ‘Made to be Reborn’: bringing materials back to life. The goal is clear: to offer the market materials which are intrinsically committed to recycling and reuse, to achieve true ‘zero waste’ result. These materials have been designed and tested to guarantee a second, or even a third life.”
This research has made it possible to increasingly study and refine our tanning technology, assessing its sustainability according to the strictest international standards. Research led by Ars Tinctoria has also highlighted the extraordinary characteristics of Ecotan leathers: not only do they have a high percentage of renewable (biobased) material, but they are also biodegradable and compostable. Even more surprising is their ability to be transformed at the end of their life into a biofertilizer that promotes plant growth due to the high content of micronutrients, such as nitrogen and organic carbon, which are naturally present in hides. In addition, the presence of tannins in the leather – polyphenolic substances with antibacterial properties – helps protect the root system of plants.
“We took the opportunity offered by the new UNI EN 16848 standard, which will make it mandatory to output a material’s sustainability criteria, to thoroughly test Ecotan leathers. The results were really interesting,” Defeo explains. “First, we analyzed the radiocarbon content to assess the renewable component of these leathers. The results were outstanding: more than 80% of the material is of renewable origin, which can reach values of up to 96%, well above the thresholds required by future European regulations. Next, we focused on compostability and biodegradability. Although we knew that 100% complete biodegradability is not possible due to the presence of tannins, natural substances that are synthesized by plants to protect themselves from pathogens, we were surprised by how quickly such leathers decomposed in composting tests. We also evaluated phytotoxicity, that is the impact of the materials on plants. The results were very positive: composted Ecotan leathers promoted plant growth due to the protective action of tannins on unwanted microorganisms and the gradual release of nitrogen, an essential nutrient for plant growth. This approach solves one of the most pressing problems in modern agriculture: the overuse of synthetic fertilizers, which can contaminate groundwater. Finally, we quantified the CO₂ emission savings from turning Ecotan leathers into fertilizer, comparing it to the worst-case scenario: incineration. Preliminary results indicate significant CO₂ savings, which we are currently determining more precisely. Moreover, plants growing from this fertilizer will absorb more CO₂ from the atmosphere, further amplifying the environmental benefits.”
The sustainability of Ecotan leathers, therefore, goes far beyond the characteristics of the material itself.
“The issue of reusing resources and limiting waste is essential,” says Alessandra Taccon. She continues, “Having the ability to measure the CO₂ savings that result from using leathers committed to a second life is invaluable. Reducing CO₂ emissions is a crucial commitment for our target market. When we show our project to brands, we always highlight the best practices related to our technology and the possibility of obtaining carbon credits related to the use of materials with high biological content. This measurement, conducted by CTC Ars Tinctoria using 14C radiocarbon technology, enhances the choice to give leathers a second life, avoiding incineration. It is crucial to shift the focus to end- of-life management as well. Proper management is equally important; as a matter of fact, it allows us to reduce waste and create a virtuous cycle. We would like to emphasize the importance of both these dimensions: product life cycle analysis and end-of-life management. Together with Gustavo Defeo, we have worked hard to develop the Ecotan protocol, achieving some excellent results.”
Ecotan’s journey poses some challenges, but also great opportunities. As Andrea Cassani, Head of Innovation BU Leather at Silvateam, points out, one of the greatest difficulties has been getting accurate and complete information on the chemical composition of the materials used in leather production.
“The biggest challenge was the lack of specific data to carry out our analysis. Without full control over the entire supply chain, as in the case of dyes and zinc, we had to carry out several tests to get the necessary information,” the manager explains. “Zinc, in particular, is a very used element in the leather supply chain, but rarely listed in the specifications. For this reason, we had to thoroughly analyze the fertilizer regulations to understand which elements could be introduced into the leather and make it compatible with later use as a fertilizer. The differences between the requirements for fertilizer and compost further complicated the process. However, these limitations pushed us to find innovative solutions and explore new market opportunities. We are aware that regulations may vary between countries (e.g., the U.S. and the EU), but this gives us the opportunity to adjust our product to different needs and open new frontiers.”
Ecotan stands out as a model of excellence in the sustainability sector. Through an innovative approach and constant research, Silvateam has managed to create a technology that combines high performance with respect for people and the environment. The future of Ecotan is promising: new collaborations, new projects and new goals to be achieved. Together with the entire leather supply chain, important results can be achieved. Join the Ecotan team in this forward-looking project that brings together a true community of leather lovers.

ecotanleather.com

Alessandra Taccon, BU Leather Ecotan Project Director – Silvateam

Andrea Cassani, Silvateam’s BU Leather Innovation Manager – Silvateam

Gustavo Defeo, Scientific Director – CTC Ars Tinctoria