In the dynamic and evolving landscape of certifications, Centrocot’s three decades of experience in the textile sector prove to be an invaluable compass for the tanning industry. Centrocot (Centro Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento S.p.A.), recognized as a national and international center of excellence, is steering the tanning sector towards new standards of responsibility and transparency. This journey not only reflects evolving market demands but also responds to a global expectation of greater sustainability and accountability. Today, sustainability and traceability are no longer mere options; they are fundamental requirements that compel the entire industry to confront increasingly complex challenges. With its vast experience in textiles, Centrocot positions itself as a strategic and enlightened partner for leather companies. The objective is clear: to elevate quality and ethical standards, accompanying businesses through cutting-edge certification processes. These pathways aim not just for regulatory conformity, but for genuine ethical and environmental excellence across the entire production chain. Centrocot is firmly committed to transforming current obstacles into tangible opportunities, promoting an approach that enhances the value of the planet and the end-consumer. Its leadership in the certification sector is a key driver for a more responsible and high-performing future. Recently, at Lineapelle, we had the opportunity to speak with Grazia Cerini, CEO and General Manager of Centrocot, who outlined the company’s vision regarding OEKO-TEX certification and supply chain traceability.
The products of many companies at Lineapelle can compete with, overlap, or support the leather sector. Is there increasing interest in certifications in this context?
“Absolutely. The interest in Oeko-Tex certification is palpable and continuously growing. This globally recognized certification serves as a true safeguard for chemical safety, guaranteeing the absence of harmful substances for humans and the environment in textile and leather products. OEKO-TEX has established itself as a fundamental pillar in the textile sector for over three decades, with impressive figures attesting to its significant impact and widespread adoption: a remarkable 300,000 certificates have been issued to 35,000 companies worldwide. This long history of success and extensive experience have paved the way for applying similar standards to other sectors. For the leather sector, the Leather Standard by OEKO-TEX is its more recently introduced equivalent, specifically designed for the unique characteristics of this supply chain. It represents a concrete response to the growing demand for transparency and sustainability from consumers and brands, offering a clear path for tanneries seeking to demonstrate their commitment to responsible and safe production.”
The process to obtain OEKO-TEX Leather Standard certification is particularly demanding for leather producers. What are the main difficulties?
“It’s true, the OEKO-TEX Leather Standard certification has very stringent requirements, especially concerning certain substances and processes specific to tanning, making the compliance journey a real challenge for many companies. The complexity of production cycles and the variety of raw materials used demand meticulous attention and in-depth knowledge of chemical regulations. However, we are proud to observe how the Italian industry is making significant strides in this direction. Despite the inherent difficulties, the Italian supply chain are demonstrating remarkable adaptability and innovation. It is notable that, out of a total of 128 OEKO-TEX Leather Standard certified companies worldwide, a full 12 obtained their certification precisely by Centrocot in Italy. This figure not only underscores the excellence of ‘Made in Italy’ but also highlights Centrocot’s crucial role as a facilitator in this process. Our primary objective is precisely to further facilitate this journey for both Italian and international tanneries. We offer not only our technical competencies and state-of-the-art laboratories but, more importantly, the thirty years of experience gained in the textile sector with the OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification. This extensive know-how enables us to anticipate issues, offer targeted solutions, and guide companies toward achieving the OEKO-TEX Leather Standard with greater efficiency and assurance, transforming a challenge into an opportunity for growth and market distinction.”
Is the certification process for leather comparable to that for textiles?
“Yes, in terms of stringency and process complexity, leather certification is very similar to that of the textile sector. This analogy is fundamental to understanding Centrocot’s approach. We can effectively compare a tannery to a textile dyeing and finishing company. In both cases, we are dealing with processes that involve the use of a wide range of chemical substances and require rigorous control to guarantee the safety of the final product and the minimization of environmental impact. The technical complexities, the need to carefully monitor every stage of treatment, and the chemical safety standards to be met are substantially equivalent. This similarity allows Centrocot to apply the vast know-how and testing methodologies refined over decades of experience in textiles directly to the tanning sector, offering robust and reliable support for achieving the most demanding certifications.”
Traceability is a hot topic, especially in light of new regulations. What are the future prospects in this area?
“The ability to guarantee full supply chain traceability through digital tools is not merely an emerging need but a crucial imperative for the industry’s future. This evolution necessitates measuring and communicating data transparently, not only to ensure genuine sustainability but also to effectively combat the phenomenon of ‘greenwashing,’ which risks undermining consumer trust.
Consider, for example, the complexity of a finished textile product that may require testing for around 400 different substances throughout its production chain. Every component, every stage, every treatment must be documented and verifiable to ensure compliance with the required standards. The ambitious goal is to extend this digital transparency to the leather sector as well. While this might represent a more complex journey, given the nature of the materials and the multiple stakeholders involved, the implementation of advanced traceability systems is indispensable for enhancing the authenticity and sustainability of leathers. In the future, consumers will have access to a true ‘digital product passport’ for items, which will narrate their complete story, from the origin of raw materials to the production process and environmental impact. This will not only elevate companies’ responsibility standards but also provide end-consumers with the tools to make more informed and conscious choices. An active example of this vision is the OEKO-TEX® Made in Green label, which allows transparent tracking of every stage of production via a QR code linked to an online database. The label guarantees that the product has been tested for harmful substances and was manufactured under safe and sustainable working conditions. Technological research and collaboration among all supply chain stakeholders will be the driving forces behind this transformation, guiding the industry toward a future of greater ethics and transparency.” Centrocot thus confirms its role as a fundamental player in promoting a leather industry that is increasingly transparent, responsible and at the forefront.
OEKO-TEX® certification for sustainable leather: the “Leather Standard” in focus Centrocot guides the tanning industry towards the future
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